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    starting a 1400's replica

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    Post by tghsmith Wed Mar 17, 2021 6:02 am

    First topic message reminder :

    after lots of evenings of reading have decide that the "crossbow of Matthias Corvinus 1489" will be the design that I will be using as a model. 30" tiller, 24-26" bow, 2 axis lock,, well documented and even an X-ray of the lock.. drawing up plans and gather materials.. calculated the nut size and enlarged the x-ray photo to match, gives me a good pattern of the lock.. wanting to test my new tools with antler, made an arbor and turned a nut blank on the lathe,, set up the boring head in the bench mill and milled a section for the forward nut bearing.. new tools are great!! my holly logs that have been dry for 5 years are spalted and worthless for crossbow needs (they were cut at the worst time) looking at locating a hornbeam billet.. starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 8iuEgGstarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 IhngKr

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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:15 am

    Looking good
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    Post by tghsmith Sun Apr 11, 2021 8:10 am

    starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 Vff3rAstarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 65YEId
    a good morning, last year needing a new bandsaw that day I bought the deluxe rikon 10".. setting the fence the wider board was trimmed to width, both boards were resawn to thickness, resawing through 4 1/2" of hornbeam the saw did great,, instead of lots of planer chips I now have two 3/8" boards.. the main boards were run through the planer and when surfaces were correct glued up.. they will stay in the clamps for several days.. most likely will spend the wait honing my chisels so they will be raedy for the work ahead..
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    Post by tghsmith Wed Apr 14, 2021 11:19 am

    unclamped it all, the glue line looks great, nearly invisible in sections, a light run across the jointer and then the planer to level the opposite side, the 2.5" by 4.5" is ready to profile, also looks like 2 tillers should be able to be cut from this billet. (factoring what I paid for the hornbeam this is a plus) kind a hard to believe that those dark wood museum pieces started out this "white" all the mastic and inlay work must have really shown well when new.. guess I'll find out.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Wed Apr 14, 2021 1:27 pm

    Yes. This is hawthorn,  not as white as hornbeam so yours should really popstarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 20210328_1615163708890706637586983
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Wed Apr 14, 2021 2:07 pm

    You ok with how to make the mastic?
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    Post by tghsmith Wed Apr 14, 2021 6:07 pm

    I've looked at several mixes, pitch, charcol, tar, linseed oil, powders.. Kind of leaning towards modern materials,, thinking that tinted and filled epoxies might work well and could give the option more than just black.. most likely will test some ideas on some scrap wood..
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Thu Apr 15, 2021 12:51 pm

    That's too complicated for me!  I used a fast drying water based varnish mixed with a small amount of finely ground  charcoal. Carved the pattern out with a v-tool palm gouge, liberally daubed the varnish on and scraped it off leaving the gouge pattern filled.  Took next to no time to do the mastic work. Easy peasy
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    Post by tghsmith Sun Apr 18, 2021 7:16 am

    made a tiller template and marked the billet, a quick trip on the band saw and we have 2 tiller blanks, Glue line looks great. Thestarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 DYcjDM blacksmith has the tickler well underway,, the 90 degree is complete (the hard part) and now its forge welding the upper plate and final shaping..
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    Post by c sitas Fri Apr 23, 2021 5:10 pm

    I love your little block plane. I have one very similar that is older than I am. If you are  gifted enough to own one of these that is razor sharp, it's like magic  making the chips fly.
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    Post by tghsmith Sat Apr 24, 2021 7:18 am

    it's a newer stanely low angle,, but with any plane, drawknife, chisel or shave it all has to due with the tuning and edge.. I have some older cheap planes that cut great after some work on them(just not as easy to adjust).
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    Post by tghsmith Tue Apr 27, 2021 4:41 pm

    starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 WgFC15
    my blacksmith just sent me a photo!!!!
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Wed Apr 28, 2021 2:57 pm

    That looks so nice!
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    Post by tghsmith Wed Apr 28, 2021 3:49 pm

    picked up the tickler, it looks better than the picture, all from one piece, no forge welds,, he showed his first attempt with forge weld, glad he decided to start over!  trimmed and cleaned up the billets a bit..starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 Xrfoumstarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 QYXf99
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Thu Apr 29, 2021 1:46 pm

    My smith used a weld and it caused a couple of headaches so glad yours didnt. Are you going to use a stirrup?
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    Post by tghsmith Thu Apr 29, 2021 4:17 pm

    as I have a mill and lathe now, a cranequin will be made ,, still deciding if a stirrup or at least a ring will be fitted..
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Sat May 01, 2021 4:03 am

    The first time you want to put the bow down on a less than clean surface you will wish the bindings were protected by a big chunk of steel.  I havent found many images of mid 1400 crossbows without a stirrup but I'd have thought a ring would be perfectly fine.  I would be really intetested in seeing how you build a cranequin.
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    Post by tghsmith Sat May 01, 2021 7:19 am

    made up a test fixture and started refining the tickler and parts,, not completely happy with the tumbler shape and hole position, thinking I'll make another that will move the axel back and lower, also lining up more on the radius of the nut.. the axels are at 3/16ths and most likely will go to 1/4" starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 UIOuuH
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Sat May 01, 2021 8:19 am

    Page 98 of die hornbogenarmbrust has an excellent diagram that should be useful to you as well aa the illustration on page 62
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    Post by tghsmith Sun May 02, 2021 7:45 am

    starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 Mw4t6v
    using the jig blockstarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 69Ul6Ustarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 Zn0lte a new tumbler shape and axel placement was worked out, seems to be a good method to aid in design and movement.. small holes will be drilled through the jig to mark the tiller for axel drilling.. a template of the action area can be made to help in the carving out of the tiller..
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Sun May 02, 2021 8:01 am

    Looking good
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    Post by Andy. Tue May 04, 2021 5:01 pm

    Nice sweet, crisp trigger pull on the way there! Geometry looks good.
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    Post by tghsmith Wed May 05, 2021 4:20 pm

    spent some time adjusting the parts and axel locations,, turned a steel puck that will get a setion cut out to imbed in the nut..starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 WK4Tbs
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 07, 2021 10:51 am

    Its amazing to watch such quick progress, still think the point/nose of the tumbler is too high in the nut, should it be near the bottom of the nut, sort of at 7 o'clock, not up high? Yours looks more like its near the centre, say at 9 o'clock?
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    Post by tghsmith Fri May 07, 2021 12:20 pm

    I'm somewhere around 7:30, most of the 3 axis locks are around there as pivot makes the middle piece flip back during release.. to put it at 6 would just add extra "belly" to the tiller.. lock sections were refined a bit more and "extra" steel was removed, scrapped the section of the puck idea and a nut steel was made from some 3/8"s steel square rod, milled the nut for fitment, it extends well into nut.. transferred the axel points to the tiller billet and drilled, while set up for drilling the other two main holes where done, might band saw the side profiles this weekend..starting a 1400's replica - Page 2 3Xv98Rstarting a 1400's replica - Page 2 IhngKr
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 07, 2021 2:47 pm

    Nice. Really enjoying your build

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