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» Stonebow Buildalong
by banuvatt Thu Jun 25, 2020 9:00 pm

» How to Attach a PVC Prod to a Stock?
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» Draw length ash lath
by banuvatt Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:47 am


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    Post by banuvatt on Mon Dec 30, 2019 10:52 am

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    The two drawings are of a riser for a stonebow. I am going to make it similar to a takedown recurve bow. Except the limbs are going to be held by a 16 gauge metal sheet sleeve that is screwed on to the riser. I decided to do this to mount the limb instead of the standard bolt, and washers. The top drawing is a front view of the riser. The bottom drawing is of a top down view of the riser. As you can see from the top drawing, I drew a cut out in the riser to give clearance for the ball to shoot through.
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    Post by Andy. on Mon Dec 30, 2019 4:05 pm

    Sounds like a cool project, will watch with interest!
    Have just finished a slingshot rifle myself.

    How did you go with the trigger on your other model?
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    Post by banuvatt on Mon Dec 30, 2019 4:42 pm

    You mean the crossbow, on the post I titled First Build?
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    Post by Andy. on Mon Dec 30, 2019 5:54 pm

    yes
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    Post by banuvatt on Mon Dec 30, 2019 5:57 pm

    I still have to get a delrin rod for nut. But, besides that I drew out the plans for the trigger mechanism.
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed Feb 05, 2020 6:36 am

    I'm going to share a video I thought was interesting. The other reason why I am sharing it is because the way he fixed the limb riser onto the stock is similar to what I want to do. Just to give you a better idea of what I plan to do. https://youtu.be/m3yhTMGTjx0
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    Post by Andy. on Thu Feb 06, 2020 3:08 pm

    I like that limb riser setup.

    Not a fan of the pouch and spreader bar string arrangement though.... unless tradition is important.

    Much prefer a single string with an attached lightweight sled that runs in covered rail. Safer, simpler and probably more accurate imo
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu Feb 06, 2020 7:57 pm

    The only thing about the sled is I don't know how to make it. Also I don't know how to make a trigger that will engage with it.
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    Post by Andy. on Fri Feb 07, 2020 1:57 am

    The sled only needs to be a small length, approx 25mm, steel round bar the same diameter as the balls your intending to shoot, eg-10mm.

    Drill a hole crosswise in sled for the string to pass through and smooth off rim. 

    Notch the end to latch into a trigger mech of your choice. I would suggest a basic spring action air rifle design.

    Set a small magnet into the base of the rail at the cocked ball seating point to hold ammo in place for firing (if using steel ball bearings)
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Feb 07, 2020 6:10 am

    Alright thank you very much, that was really helpful.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:57 am

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    I found this trigger mechanism design I thought this would work well. As you can tell it's practically a modern adapted version of a roller nut.
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    Post by ora8i on Fri Feb 07, 2020 1:58 pm

    If your want to use an air gun trigger look for my post about the Weihrauch trigger.




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    Post by Andy. on Fri Feb 07, 2020 3:06 pm

    That trigger will work, but I reckon keep it simpler with less moving parts, like this speargun unit, which is similar to many basic airgun mechs.....

    http://www.spearboard.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202994&d=1395378217

    Imagine the "spear" is the proposed sled.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Feb 07, 2020 5:40 pm

    While I do believe that simplicity does cause less problems in the long run a one piece trigger might not be the most efficient I imagine the trigger pull would be quite heavy. To the point to make it shootable the trigger would have to be very long but, at that point it's a lever. I imagine the pieces I would use for the trigger would be at least two at most three .
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    Post by Andy. on Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:54 pm

    True, depends how heavy the limbs are, trigger lever length and fulcrum/pin location.

    I would think something like this would be adequate for a sub 100lb pellet bow...
     
    http://www.airgunspares.com/store/product/7213/BSA-Cadet-%26-Major-Trigger-Part-No.-16-637/

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    Post by banuvatt on Sun Feb 09, 2020 10:56 pm

    I have seen one piece trigger mechanisms mostly on pistol crossbows/speargun. This is probably because of the lower draw weight and the distance between the trigger and the handle.Stonebow Buildalong Spearg10
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:11 am

    For the sled I thought of using a delrin rod with the sear reinforced with a bit of steel. This is so the trigger catch doesn't wear down the sled sear since it will be steel on steel. I also thought of drilling some lightening holes into the sled or even a slot to minimize weight. Please, me know what you think about my idea and whether it will work or not.
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    Post by Andy. on Fri Feb 14, 2020 12:43 am

    Sounds good.

    Personally I wouldn't be too concerned about the sled being slightly heavier if entirely steel. Shot cycle could be dodgy if things are too light.... of course this depends on how heavy your limbs are, what they're made of, and how strong the string is.

    Making the sled and ball combo weight roughly equivalent to an arrow that the crossbow could shoot would be a good starting point. Much easier to make a lighter sled if required rather than a new string or prod!
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Feb 14, 2020 6:46 am

    I am wondering how far away from the end should the notch be to engage with the trigger? I am worried if I put it too far to the end it could just weaken it and pop it off. Another question I have is where at the sled should the string be at? Lastly, about the lightening holes what size should the holes be, and how far apart should they be from each other? I know that some of these questions may be overly meticulous, and I might be over thinking this. For this I apologize, but I'm just trying to make sure this goes right the first time and nothing fails on me.
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    Post by Andy. on Fri Feb 14, 2020 1:27 pm

    The notch distance from the sled end should be, at a minimum,as long as the notch depth. Notch depth should be at maximum half the diameter of the sled.

    String should be positioned in the middle of the sled.

    I wouldn't worry about lightening holes myself.


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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Feb 14, 2020 1:49 pm

    Okay thank you very much for the help.
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    Post by septua on Sat Feb 15, 2020 10:54 am

    banuvatt

    Below is a link to my low res images (sorry). Seems like posting pictures is not easy now days. I will keep trying.



    https://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t1674-italy-palio-tournament-style-bullet-bow


    Here is a brief description of the sled "shuttle":


    My avatar drawing shows the front profile of launch rail with 9/16” steel ball and bow string.
    The removable rail is of delrin and shuttle is super strong and lite wt. hmw polyethylene.
    Shuttle/ball combination is 23grams and b50 string is 66 strands for durability.                                                                                                                            







     




     



                                                                                                                                


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    Post by banuvatt on Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:20 am

    Okay thank you very much, for the information it was really helpful.
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    Post by c sitas on Wed Mar 04, 2020 9:06 pm

    Banuvatt, I was just passing through and read your thread . I am just trying to save you some money. I
    The trigger you show early on in your article is a commerical made one. I own such a trigger. It is for my air rifle. The sear that extends out the top is way too short , a good 1/16". Wouldbe way better off making one from scratch. I 've made several using Geezers addition  to delrin. Works perfect.If you need the old look , use the white . Just dirty up accordingly. Good luck, By the way ,that trigger only costs about $40.00. can be made into a real good trigger for single sear work.
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu Mar 05, 2020 8:34 am

    I appreciate what you tried to do but, I have plenty of 3/16 steel plate that I could use to make the trigger mechanism.

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