Central European Sporting Bow

First topic message reminder :

This is my first attempt at a bow, I have been inspires by many of you on his site! After reading Iolo's first book of crossbows I decided to give it a try. I started with the Alchem's basic plan that is posted on their site and then with my knowledge from Iolo I put in by own twists. I tried to go with a central European sporting look. I am also wood burning patterns into the stock, this was inspired by some of the bows on display at the Metropolitain Museum of Art.




The stock is oak and the table and side inlays are maple the nut insert and inlays are cherry. I made the tickler on my bench vice I wanted to give it a sharp return as most Central European ticklers but I don't have access to welding equiptment. I ordered a prod from Alchem and I am patiently waiting!!!
Hope you all like!! Please let me know what you think!
More to come......

Years ago I ran across something called a bean can forge.
Here is a link to something like it but updated. I was thinking a hole in the back would allow you to heat the middle of a tickler for forge welding. Our local SCA blacksmiths use borax for a flux, bought at the supermarket in the laundry aisle.http://www.zoellerforge.com/coffee.html

8finger,
Thanks for sharing! Looks like I found a few more projects after looking at that site! I didn't know about the borax. I was wondering what a traditional flux would have been.

Ok here we go! I bound on the the much awaited prod! The Prod is bound with 180lb Hemp cord and is seized with artificial sinew. The skein is aritficial sinew with waxed linen servings. I still need to adjust the fistmele. Just holding this is awe inspiring I'm Hooked!





I still have to put on the finishing touches spring clip, stirrup, and adjust the fistmele. I also started to make a few bolts. I scrapped my original stirrup I didn't like the way it looked on this bow, so I'm back to square one on the stirrup. I am also considering scrapping the whole stirrup idea and going with a hanging ring and a Gaffe, or a Wippe. Let me know your thoughts.
CMG

CMG,

Stop right now!

If you shoot the bow with the brace height that low, the string will probably strike your bolt support. It might or might not knock it off and damage the dovetail.

Better safe than sorry.

Also, you have a lot of twists in your string. this will rob power...All the more so if you raise the brace height by twisting it further.

While we are on the subject of strings. I see you have used "artificial sinew". That stuff is made of nylon, and is really too stretchy for an efficient string.

I usually use polyester http://www.3riversarchery.com/Brownell++B-50+Bow+String+Material_c0_s0_p0_i4144X_product.html
The light brown (g) looks most like linen.

All in all, I see a new string in your future.

Mac

Mac,
Thank you, I just put the string on to try the fit (too long) this is the second string I made the first one was to short (maybe not!) I have to fashion a bastard string as I was unable to get the first string on. I was unaware that the twists in the string robbed power. So.... Looks like I'll be on to skein three! Well at least I'll be well practiced, and maybe third time is a charm! I like the bow string material! Thanks for the link.
CMG

Looks great, really like the pattern on the back of the prod, how did you do that? Now for a couple of constructive crictical comments:

-go with the other string material Mac suggested

-brace height I think should be 2 3/4" to 3"

-your bolt rest may be too high causing your bolts to kick up as the fletching go over it(find out when you shoot it)

-and lastly, depending on how thick your string is, you may experience a misfire as the string might go under the bolt at release because you are not using a bolt groove.(I have experienced this personally)

Those last two items were not a problem on originals because they used really fat strings and and just as fat bolts.

All in all you did a very nice job on that. Fancier than anything I have built.

Todd

Didn't have much time last time I checked in, now checking in and see updates with the prod already bound in place...damn that thing looks sweet. Are you making a matching bolt clip?

I knew it was going to look great, but "this great"...didn't expect it. Thanks for the pleasant surprise CMG.

Now the technical side...

First with the twists in the string...the idea behind the twist in the string is it function on the similar principal a coiled expansion spring does. Hope this brings a good picture to mind.

The bolt riser rest seems fine to my inexperienced eye, but it's better to five it a few shots and see.

The brace height the guys were already on top of...as well as the string material.

Well...all I can suggest is blackening the tickler so everything matches, but that's just me - I like black metallic.

Oh..and definitely tell us how you did that prod decoration....engraving, chemical etch ?

Ivo

OK I fixed the string twist and the fistmele it is now just shy of 3". I ended up lashing on the stirrup that I don't really care for all in all it doesn't look that bad because I etched it, But I still have plans for a new one! (pictures to follow) I fab'ed an added a spring clip(didn't etch it) I ordered the string material Mac suggested and will be making my next (4th) string out of it! Also Ivo I agree! I think the tickler being black will tie it all in (spring clip is also black).
So to the fun stuff! I finally got to shooting! I threw together a few bolts, went to a freinds May day gathering and killed some serious hay !
I am really happy with its performance!
I was not so happy with my bolt construction I used tips for aluminum arrows they ended up breaking off but I did have my fun before they died! The bolts flew straight and fast! I am totally HOOKED!
ON to the etching! It is just that good old fashioned etching! I put on some masking tape drew a simple design cut out the design with an exacto knife and etched the surface with a small awl 45degrees then 90 degrees to that. just need to keep the awl very sharp and essentially all you are doing is removing the paint to expose the metal below. you can finish up by sealing it with a clear coat to prevant rust.

Thanks for all you advice and comments!
CMG